Mountain Bike SlangTory GoodwinSunday, April 15, 2001

Air: space between the tires and the ground. (Both tires must be off the ground or it isn't "air".) Said to be caught or gotten. See sky.

Ano: frequently-misspelled abbreviation for "anodized"
.
ATB: All-Terrain Bike or Biking. A synonym for MTB.

auger: to involuntarily take samples of the local geology, usually with one's face, during a crash. See face plant.

bacon: scabs on a rider's knees, elbows, or other body parts.

bail: to jump off in order to avoid an imminent crash.

biff: a crash. Synonyms: involuntary dismount, wipeout. v. "I biffed and then wiped away the blood."

biopace: a now-discredited Shimano techno-fad where the chainrings were made intentionally not circular -- instead, they were elliptical, in order to (allegedly) smooth the power delivery, by giving the rider an effectively lower gear for part of the spin cycle. Now used to describe any uneven pedaling motion. Also used as a synonym for pogo-ing.

boing-boing: a bike with full (front and rear) suspension. Might possibly be considered offensive by certain owners of said bikes.

bonk: to run out of energy or grow exhausted on a ride. "I bonked so early it was embarrassing."

bring home a Christmas tree: to ride (or crash) through dense bushes, so leaves and branches are hanging from your bike and helmet. See prune.

BSG: acronym for "Bike Store Guy".

bunny hop: to lift both wheels off the ground by crouching down and then exploding upward, pulling the bike with you. Useful for clearing obstructions, such as curbs, potholes, logs. Differs from its older BMX & trials meaning -- see jump.

buzz: euphoric feeling. Commonly used after a particularly hard assage is successfully completed. "I got such a buzz after that uphill grunt."

carve: (from skiing) to ride with great speed around the corners of a twisting fire road.
captain crash: to "go down with the ship". Usually the result of a novice spud-user failing to clip out in time.

cashed: to be too tired to ride any farther; bonked.

chainring tattoo: the dotted-line scar you get from gouging your shin on the chainring. See rookie mark.

chainsuck: condition when the bike chain gets jammed between the frame and the chain rings, or when the chainring is so worn that it holds onto the chain and lifts it up to meet the incoming part of the chain.

clean: to negotiate a trail successfully without crashing. "I cleaned that last section."

clipless:misleading name for a pedal-and-shoe system where the clips or cleats clip onto the soles of special shoes. Called "clipless" because you can't see the clips when you're clipped in. Contrast with toe clips.

clip out: (or, sometimes, click out) v. to disengage one's spuds.

cloon: slamming into the ground, resulting in a ringing head, or a delay in the action. Term used in biking, skiing, and snow boarding.

corndog: to become covered in silt, usually after a fall.

crotch-testing: sudden impact between a male rider's private parts and something very hard and pointy, such as a handlebar stem or seat.

curb grind: expensive erasure of low-hanging, shiny parts of the bike on a curb or rock.

curb slide: to place the front wheel up on a curb and allow the rear tire to scrape along the curb, usually resulting in a loud tearing sound.

dab: to put a foot down in order to catch your balance on a difficult section of trail. "I made it without crashing, but I had to dab once."
death cookies: fist-sized rocks that knock your bike in every direction but the one you want to proceed in.

death march: a ride that turns into an investigation of your endurance limit. "The bridge was out, and I had to go all the way back the way I came. So the morning's nice, easy ride turned into a Bataan death march."

dialed in: when a bike is set up nicely and everything works just right.
digger: a face plant. "Look at that guy on that gnarly single track... he's going to go over the bars and do a digger."

dirt bike: an off-road motorcycle. Usually louder than MTBs.

drillium: any part with lots of holes drilled in it to make it lighter.

dual-track: a dirt road used by four-wheeled vehicles rarely enough that their tires have made
ruts that became parallel singletracks. Also called doubletrack. See singletrack.

endo: the maneuver of flying unexpectedly over the handlebars, thus being forcibly ejected from the bike. Short for "end over end". "I hit that rock and went endo like nobody's business." See "superman". In BMX riding, "endo" used to be a synonym for front wheelie.

engine: the rider.

face plant: hitting the ground face first. "Joe hit a tree root and did a spectacular face plant." Synonyms: auger, digger, soil sample, spring planting.

first blood: credit to the first rider in a group who crashes and starts bleeding as a result.

foot fault: when a rider can't disengage his cleats from the pedals before falling over. See
horizontal track stand.

fred: a person who spends a lot of money on his bike and clothing, but still can't ride. "What a fred -- too much Lycra and titanium and not enough skill." Synonym for poser. Occasionally called a "barney".

front wheelie: what endo used to mean in BMX: a trick where the rider applies the front brake and lifts the back wheel off the ground; this is the basis for many BMX tricks. Most riders cannot pedal effectively while doing a front wheelie.

FS or F/S: an ambiguous term, can mean Front Suspension or Full Suspension. Not used by anyone who wishes to be understood.

giblets: all the colorful parts and pieces that you can add or change out on a bike.

gonzo: treacherous, extreme. "That vertical drop was sheer gonzo."

granny gear: the lowest gear available on a bike, which only a grandmother would need to use; designed for steep uphill climbing, but extremely easy to pedal in on flat ground.

gravity check: a fall.

grindies: e.g., "All that dried mud and sand left me with a loud case of the grindies in my drivetrain."

grunt: a very difficult climb, requiring use of the granny gear.

gutter bunny: a bicycling commuter.

half-track: a trail so narrow and/or overgrown that you'd hesitate even to call it singletrack.

hammer: to ride fast and hard. n. someone who hammers.

hardtail: any bike with front suspension but no rear suspension. Contrast with rigid and F/S.

HOHA: Hateful Old Hikers Association. "HOHA members hate mountain bicyclists with a fervor exceeding that of rabid wolverines."

horizontal track stand: a foot fault that happens at a stop sign. Kathunk..

IMBA: International Mountain Biking Association. An organization for trail advocacy.
involuntary dismount: a crash.

jump: where we now say bunny hop, BMXers used to say "jump".

kack: an injury to the shin received while doing trials, a kack can be the result of any injury receive during technical riding.

kick-out: a bunny hop in which the rider pushes the back tire to one side.

LBS: acronym for "Local Bike Shop".

line: the desirable path or strategy to take on a tricky trail section.

mantrap: hole covered with autumn leaves, resembling solid earth and effective at eating the

front wheel of the unsuspecting rider.

Marin: (muh RINN') the county in Northern California where MTBing is said to have been invented. Just north of the Golden Gate Bridge.

mo: momentum. "If you don't get in gear at the bottom of that hill, you'll lose your mo."

mojo: charm or icon worn by a biker or attached to the bike.

MTB: the activity of MounTain Biking. Or a mountain bike itself. v. "MTBing". See ATB, OHV, ORV, VTT.

mud diving: what happens when a bike slows abruptly in mud, throwing the rider into wet goo.

nard guard: used to prevent wang chung.

nirvana: the state of being in absolute control and totally in tune with your bike, the trail, and your physical strength. "I was just doing it all so smoothly and delicately and quickly, it was nirvana!" Synonym for The Zone.

NORBA: National Off-Road Bicycling Association. They organize most of the larger races.

OHV, ORV: Acronyms for Off-Highway Vehicle and Off-Road Vehicle. These have motors and are not bicycles.

over-the-bar blood donor: a rider who is injured while doing an endo.

pogo: to bounce on a full-suspension bike like a pogo stick. Also, for a full-suspension bike to bounce annoyingly and uncontrollably.

poser: derogatory term for people with $7,000 bikes that never see an actual trail. Usually found near a trail head and never dirty. Seinfeld may be an example. Synonym for Fred.

potato chip: a wheel that has been bent badly, but not taco'd.

powerbar: The mush bar of choice for all hardcore MTBers.

powerslide: a two-wheel sideways slide, with the foot opposite the direction of travel kept on the ground.

prune: to use one's bike or helmet to remove leaves and branches from the surrounding flora. Usually unintentional.

push-push: 1. a novice's pedaling motion, consisting of alternately pushing each foot down, instead of spinning. 2. a Shimano techno-fad shifting system.

R&D: Ripoff & Duplication, or Research & Development.

rag dolly: to wreck in such a way that one's person is tossed like a flimsy scrap of cloth."Did you see me rag dolly back there? I think I pierced my ear on a tree branch."

retro-grouch: a rider who prefers an old bike with old components and isn't fond of new, high-tech equipment.

'rhoid buffing: going down a hill so steep that your butt touches the rear wheel.
rigid: a bike with no suspension.

roadie: a rider who prefers riding on paved surfaces. Usually a derogatory term when used by MTBers.

road rash: large abrasions on a rider's legs and body caused by a crash, particularly on asphalt.
rocket fuel: the mandatory pre-ride coffee and Powerbar.

rookie mark: chain grease on a rider's pant leg. "Give that guy extra points for his rookie mark. It's even on the wrong leg!" See chainring tattoo.

roost: to go fast or accelerate quickly. Or, to stop suddenly. Usually the latter.

singletrack: trail just wide enough for one person or bike -- the MTBer's holy grail. Contrast with dual-track.

skid lid: helmet.

sky: to jump extremely high. To get big air.

snake bite: a double puncture of an inner tube, caused by hitting an obstacle too hard or by under-inflation of tires.

snowmine: an object hidden by snow on the trail. "Be careful of the snowmines -- you know, rocks, logs, hibernating bears..."

soil sample: a face plant.

spin: smooth pedal motion. Opposite of push-push.

spring planting: a face plant.

spuds: "SPD" (Shimano Pedaling Dynamics) clipless pedals.

stack: crash. v. crash with multiple riders after hitting an object.

steed: your bike, the reason for your existence.

stoned: describes a rider after a crash which imbeds stones into the rider's skin. Or the affects of a good after ride smoke in the team microbus, the VW of Choice for hardcore riders.
STI : "Shimano Total Integration" -- a marketing ploy that forces you to buy new brakes when you replace your shifters.

superman: a rider who flies over the handlebars and doesn't hit the ground for a long time. This may result in injury, but when it doesn't, it's really funny for everyone else.

schwag: the stuff that manufacturers and vendors donate to be given away at bike related events. When you race, go to bike shows, help put on events, write bike articles, you are often rewarded with schwag. Sometimes called "swag".

table-top: a jump in which the rider throws the bike sideways in mid-air. Less commonly, a jump made over a hill that reaches a plateau and goes back down.

taco: to bend a wheel over on itself, in the shape of a taco. "I taco'd my wheel, and it cost me a hundred bucks." Worse than a potato chip.

tea party: when a whole group of riders stops and chats, and nobody seems to want to ride on.

technical: a section of trail that is difficult to ride because of rocks, tree roots, steep drops.

techno-fad: a screwy or unique technology that a dominant company (usually Shimano) tries to foist upon the innocent cycling public. Past techno-fads include Biopace chainrings, and overly complex "thumb-thumb" or "push-push" shifters.

techno-weenie: a rider who knows more about the newest MTB parts and techno-fads than about the trails. Someone who buys lots of gadgets to add supposed iotas of performance to the bike. Greeting a friend whom we haven't seen in a year, I might say "Hi, Jurgen!" A techno-weenie might say "Oooh, you got White Industries hubs on that bike now?"

three-hour tour: a ride that looks like a piece of cake at the outset but turns out to be a death march. Derived from the theme song to "Gilligan's Island."

tin: titanium. Some riders would replace their watches, rings, glasses frames, and gold tooth-fillings with titanium if they could afford to.

toe clips: a clip-and-strap system that connects a rider's feet and toes to her pedals. Toe clips usually don't require special shoes.
track stand: (from road-cycling) a maneuver where the rider stops the bike and attempts to remain standing.

trail swag: equipment or accessories dropped by other bikers and found on the trail. A Kewl bonus for the finder, a bummer for the dropper.

tricked out: when a bike has the latest and hottest components.

tweak: a jump during which the rider twists the handlebars back and forth in mid-air, the more times the better. v. 1. to slightly injure a part of the body or the bike in a crash. "I tweaked my wrist when I fell." 2. to make a minor adjustment. "My brake pads were rubbing but I tweaked the cable and it went away."

unobtanium: describing a bike or accessory made from expensive, high-tech material. A play on "unobtainable" and "titanium."

vegetable tunnel: a singletrack that is heavily overgrown with foliage, so a rider must duck and bend to get through it.

VTT: Velo Tout-Terrain, the French term for mountain biking. Velo = bike, Tout = all, and don't even ask me about terrain. It's not terribly complex .

wang chung: what you might get when your stem has no nard guard. See crotch-testing.

washboard: small undulations of the soil surface that make for a very rough ride.

wash out: to have the front tire lose traction, especially while going around a corner.

weight-weenie: a MTB owner (not even necessarily a rider) who is more concerned with how many milligrams a certain component saves off the bike's total weight than with how to be a better rider.

wheelie: lifting the front wheel off the ground, usually with some combination of pulling on the handlebars, pedaling harder, and balance.

wild pigs: poorly adjusted brake pads that squeal in use.

wipeout: a crash. v. ("wipe out") to crash.

wonky: not functioning properly. "I bailed, and now my wheel is all wonky and all I hear are wild pigs."

XC: An abbreviation for "cross country." Typically it is used for cross country racing.

yard sale: (from skiing) a horrendous crash that leaves all your various "wares" -- water bottles, pump, tool bag, etc. -- scattered as if on display for sale.

The Zone: a state of mind experienced while riding. You don't think, you just do. A truly mystical experience that can't be fully explained, but when you get there you'll know it and strive to reach it again.

zone out: a state of mind where you think you've reached The Zone, but you really just stopped paying attention to what you're doing. Usually used as an excuse for a particularly embarrassing biff.


thank you.

2nd Bike Video

Coming soon

to a CD near You!

hahahha.

26th Jun 2005.

The day, where did a crazy jump off the steps around COURTS area.
It was his 1st jump off steps.

ok so yesterday me and Pete meet up to go riding after lunch. Decide to go to Khatib for riding at 1st, but we end up cycling to Sengkang. but before going there, me and pete went to have a drink at the famous Sugarcane stall in Ang Mo Kio, [think so!].

While we were cycling, i spotted a very nice steps to jump off, sooo i showed Pete theres some steps for him to try out. Since he's a beginner, I, myself, should train him. hahha..

ok.. soo i told pete that i wanted to jump of the lovely adorable steps... he was shocked that i really want to do it... soo i gave him my porch to hold, then i went to the other end to prepare for the jump.

Feeling kinda uneasy at 1st.. coz its my 1st time doing such 'crazy' stuff! b4 i go off, theres this man behind me watching what i was doing... i wonder why! haha..

soo OFF i go!!! *zooooom!*

"tap, tup,tap,tup!" that is how i felt while doing the jump....

*Bam!* woah!! i CLEAN that jump! everybody around there was looking at me! wahh!! 'limelight' for a moment.......





more stunts coming up from Us!

Buying your first mountain bike!

For many people buying that very first mountain bike can be a traumatic experience. There are all sorts of new words, unfamiliar technologies and marketing gimmicks to contend with. Also the price alone is enough to send some people into convulsions. This guide is designed to help alleviate some of those anxieties and allow you to make a more educated purchase decision.

There is quite a variety of bikes considered "entry level." The price range for these bikes are $600-800. Yes you can find cheaper bikes, but cheaper is the key word. Also there are hundreds of bikes over $800, but unless you know you will love the sport, these bikes may be more than you need.

Assess Your Needs.

The single most important thing to do before shopping for your first bike is to assess your needs. Are you planning on riding this bike exclusively off road? for commuting to work or school? or a mix of both? Also important is how often you will be riding.

If you're looking for a bike for off-road use, but haven't ridden off road, try renting a bike. Many local bike shops rent bikes and can also recommend trails for you to give you a good idea of the sport. Off-road riding is a very different experience than road riding.

Next read as much about mountain bikes as you can. Reading this story is a great start. Pick up some mountain bike magazines. Most have sections dedicated to the beginner.

How Much to Spend.

Deciding how much to spend is a tough decision. As a general rule, the more you spend the better bike you get. The biggest difference between a $600 bike and a $800 bike is the components (shifters, derailers, brakes). The more expensive, the more durable (at least until you start getting into the high-end where lightweight often reduces durability. Many first time buyers buy a low-end bike and later upgrade the components as necessary. Another school of thought is to buy the best bike you can afford and save the hassles of upgrading. It is cheaper to buy the components on the bike than it is to buy components later and upgrade.

A good way to save some money on a new mountain bike is to buy last years model. Just like cars, bike manufacturers come out with new models every year. There is usually little difference between one year and the next. You can pick up last years model starting around the August and September months. Of course selection is usually fairly limited when buying last years models.

A Good Dealer is as Important as a Good Bike.

When you visit a bike store, it is important you find a sales person who is knowledgeable and you feel comfortable talking to. When you're talking to sales people, ask whenever they use words you don't understand. Try asking them a question you know the answer to see what they say. If their answer isn't to your satisfaction than find someone else to help you. Also ask them what they ride. If they are primarily a road rider than you should probably talk to someone else. A good salesperson will listen to your needs and help you find the best bike for you.

Visit as many different bike stores as you can. Each one carries a different selection of makes and models. The quality of the store is also important. The store you buy your bike from is responsible for assembling it. A poor assembly job can make for a very poor riding bike. Make sure you feel comfortable with the competency of the staff. You want a store that you will feel comfortable brining your bike back to for work in the future.

The Right Bike.

Test ride a variety of bikes. Try bikes in the low end of your price range and the high end and feel the differences. Try bikes with different components to see which you like best. Larger stores have more of a selection and are also more likely to have a model in your size available for a test ride.

When you take a bike for a test ride, try to take it out over more challenging terrain than the parking lot. Ride over curbs, gravel roads, grass, etc. Get a good feel for how each bike handles rough terrain. The dealer should allow you a 15-20 minute test ride. Some dealers are now offering off-road test rides. These are the most helpful.

It is important that when you buy a bike and test ride a bike that the bike fits you properly. For a mountain bike you want at least 2 inches of clearance between the top tube and your crotch when straddling the bike. You also want to make sure the seat is at the right height. You want your leg to be almost straight when sitting on the seat and your foot is on the pedal at its lowest point. If the bike store doesn't have a bike you want to test ride in your size, ask them to assemble one for you. This will take a few days, but it is essential that you test a bike that fits you properly.

The two popular ways for determining a bike's sizes. One way is to measure the seat tube from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube. Another way is to measure from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. Frame sizes will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer so try them out to see what is right for you.

The most common materials for mountain bike frame manufacturing is chro-moly and aluminum. Chro-moly offers good weight and strength properties for recreational riding. You may also find some entry level aluminum frames. Aluminum is lighter than chro-moly, but not as strong so you usually find aluminum frames to have larger tube diameters to add strength. Aluminum tends to cost a little more, but also can save around .5 lbs. Both metals make excellent frames. In the higher end bikes, you will find more exotic materials like titanium and carbon fibre. Both offer great weight savings, but neither is cheap.

Make sure the tires on the bike are appropriate for what you want to use it for. If you are going to be riding mostly off road then look for large knobby tires. If you plan on doing a lot of street riding than look for tires with fewer smaller knobbies. A good dual use tire has a ridge in the middle of the tire for low street resistance and has mid sized knobbies on the sides.

There is a big debate over shifters in the mountain bike community. This is really a matter of personal preference. Essentially there are two types of shifters on the market today: Rapidfire and Gripshift. Both shifter types have a strong following so try them both and see which works best for you. Rapidfire shifters use buttons/levers placed under your brake lever. With a flip of your index finger or thumb you can move up and down your gears. Gripshift works like a motorcycle throttle. You change gears by turning the control on the handle bar grip itself.

The seat's comfort is also an issue, especially if you plan to do a lot of road riding. If the seat isn't comfortable you will pay for it on long rides. You can get seat pads and padded bicycle shorts help, but it is best to get a seat that is comfortable in the beginning.

If the seat is uncomfortable, but you like the rest of the bike, ask the dealer to replace it. For that matter if there is anything you don't like on the bike, see if you can swap out different parts. Of course if you're looking for a more expensive part you will have to pay the difference.

It is important that you find a bike that you feel comfortable riding. Once you have a bike you think is the one for you, take it for a couple more test rides. Make sure the ride is smooth, it shifts easily and that the braking is tight and quick.


thank you.

on the previous post i discuss the topic of how to get more speed... seriously.. its fun, u guys out there should try not to use your brakes unless you are about to hit something BIG! haha. that works for me.

ok guys, so its nearly reaching the 1 week of school reopens ya? Have not been taking our bike since then. Our timetable was so different from each others. Thats a buMMer! But don't worry, we'll try to ride at least once a week alright. haha.
Our DownhiLL Bike Owner, (Mr.Gary) has plan to get himself a new set of bike. He's planning to rip off the old parts on his $750 DownhiLL bike an attach it to the new bike. How Cool is that? yea! haha..

Now i wonder, where is he going to put the both bike at? hahah..
I, myself, for past few days have been craving to have a jump off the stairs. hmm, maybe not 20 steps yet! Just a lil 3-5 steps for practice. Then, went the time comes, i'm equip with my helmet, the 20 steps down is going to be fulfilled. How cool is that? yeah! haha..=) sounds crazy? Neh!! its fun! try it! haha.

And, i'm planning to make a video of the stunts that we RiderZx make! All we need now is a camcorder or a digital camera. Anyone wants to volunteer to sponsors us those?? haha..
well, the only guy that have a digi camera right now is none other than our Mr.Pete!

The Secret to Speed

Hold on to your seats, I am about to give you the key to unlock all that latent speed that you know you have inside. One phrase. Are you ready?
Don't use the brakes.

Don't look so disappointed. What were you expecting, Magic? Now just a second, before you reach for the back button let me explain. I don't mean to not use them at all, just use them less.
One of the best ways to improve your riding is to go with someone that is faster than you. Not way faster, so that you get discouraged, but a bit faster, so you really have to work to keep up. Now that you've found someone that fits the bill try following him (or her, that could be fun too) through some downhill singletrack. Notice how the gap keeps getting bigger? You're not doing much pedaling so it's not likely a strength issue. What could it be? I'll tell you, the faster rider is using their brakes less.

Have you ever been on a ride when, for some reason, you had no brakes, or a lot less than you wanted? Maybe a cable broke or your rims iced up or something. I know, it was scary. Careening downhill, unable to slowdown to a comfortable speed, you thought you were going to die. But you survived, and you went down that hill a lot faster than you otherwise would have. If you want to go faster every ride you need to harness a bit of that experience and apply it in a more controlled manner.
The problem is that this involves moving out of our comfort zone, and that can make us apprehensive. To try to calm the fears of your irrational mind have your rational mind tell it this: Speed is our friend; Speed brings stability; Stability is good. The wheels underneath do more than just hold us up. They also act as gyroscopes, like those spinney things you may have played with as a kid. Also, the things that keep spacecraft stable in the vacuum of space. The faster a gyroscope spins, the more rigidity it has. This means the faster your wheels are turning the more they will fight to stay upright and pointed straight ahead, just what we want. Now you know why sometimes when you get anxious and slow down you biff, but if you stay fast and ride it out you make out OK and look like a hero.

The hard part is knowing how fast is really too fast and when to say whoa. You can set yourself up with an exercise for exploring these limits. Find a section of downhill singletrack, steep enough that you don't have to pedal much and fast enough that you definitely have to brake for the corners. Now, keep IMBA happy and make sure you won't encounter any hikers or horses on the way down. Make your first run at your normal blistering speed. Try to note where you apply the brakes for each corner. On the next run, each time you reach for the brakes fight the impulse for one second. Remember that every bit of speed that you can carry through the turn is speed you don't have to gain back on the next straight. And that speed you don't have to gain back is energy in the bank, my friend, better than money. A little bit saved every corner can really add up over the course of a race.

In all your subsequent training runs try to brake just a tick later than the time before. One tip to avoid the temptation to brake too early or when you really don't need to is to ride with all eight fingers wrapped around the bars. Don't have one or two hanging over the levers just in case. You know where the brakes are, you'll find them if you need them and this will give you a more secure grip. If there's a corner that you have to just barely brake for, try running it with no brakes at all. Just keep all your digits clamped on the bars. Remember, keep your head up and keep looking well down the trail.
The key to pushing the envelope is to do it gradually, in small increments. Riding a downhill with your front brake disconnected may make teach you how to go really fast. More likely, it'll teach you just how brittle collarbones really are. Even though improvements may seem small one corner at a time, it will add up and it will make a difference. You worked way too hard for that speed to just turn it into heat for no good reason.

sooo, whatcha waiting for?? try it! hahaha

2 of the RiderZx Inc. members went for riding today at 1200hours. Set off towards Yishun for a cruise and to Woodlands's Causeway Point to check out some bike accessories at XCraft. The journey towards Woodlands was very challenging though. The hill was a pain in the ass. Both of us have some fun time b4 reaching Woodlands. Both of us were racing each other. CooLz. =)
The Fox gloves was a dream for us. As for me [ZuL], the Full-Face Helmet is the dream! haha.

After a few discussions with the members, we have decided to come up our very own polo-T with our Logo printed on it. Now, all we need is the budget and some sponsors for us. The shirt will come in 2 different colors, as for now. They are White and Black. We hope too to come up with more colors, and more design.

Finally after a few months of confirmation with the 'authorities', we, RiderZx Inc has started our own postings. Its for those riders out there to read and to know more about us. RiderZx Inc consist of a few members. A few members that makes the ride full of happenings. We hope too that by posting this online, we could get some feedbacks from all the bikers out there in the world. No matter where you are.